{postcards from italy~Naples I}

{via san biagio dei librai. All photos my own}

I arrived in Naples a couple of days ago and I felt right at home. I lived here for a few months while conducting doctoral research and the second time around it does indeed feel a bit like home. Naples is a very distinct city for Europe. The south, but in particular Naples, is very different from the pristine north. Here, things are a bit more chaotic, a bit more grubby, a bit more rough & well just a little crazy. If you can imagine a cross between Havana, Rome, & Lucknow, you'll get the idea. Rich in history, Naples was the seat of the great Neapolitan kingdom in the Renaissance. In the fifteenth century the Spanish Aragonese claimed Naples as their own, taking it over from the French, and it's always been a real mix of European and Italian culture.

The streets are narrow, filled with hanging laundry above, and dirty garbage below. If there are sidewalks they are usually full of goods spilling out from stores, or chairs spilling out from the apartments that line the street. So in general, you have to walk on the road, dodging cars and most commonly, minding whizzing and buzzing vespe (vespa in Italian means wasp, and they stay true to their name-you might just get stung if you don't move out of their way). While Florence is characterised by swanky Florentines in their fine dress on bicycles, Naples can be characterised by whizzing vespe. I now walk like a local, striding out in front of cars & dodging vespe, rather than sitting timidly waiting for a break in traffic, which rarely ever happens.

The streets are full of great markets--everything from lighters & ties, bikinis & socks,creche ornaments & fruit, to faux-LV bags and funky & stylish clothes. The streets stay buzzing late into the night and you'll have to get used to the noise of whizzing vehicles all night. You'll find few tourists here, especially in relation to Florence, where tourists outnumber true Florentines. Try to dress more like the locals--you'll be less of a target for pickpockets. Although, I find Naples much safer than the last time I was here-largely due to police crackdowns on petty crimes in attempts to stimulate tourism in Naples. Still, I don't stay out too late at night & try not to be too conspicuous. Like many other Italian cities, you'll get a lot of male attention if you're a woman, but in general, it's harmless--a little bit of leering and whisperings of 'bella!'

Even if you speak Italian you'll find it hard to understand people here. Most shopkeepers, taxi drivers etc...speak in Neapolitan dialect. It involves a lot of slurring, elisions, and strong hand gestures, and isn't easy to understand! Neapolitans are pretty friendly. Today I was sitting in the Archaeological museum resting for a sec and a curator came & sat with me & chatted about the collections. He thought I was from Rome (which I was very pleased about--one hates to look like a tourist) and we conversed about the museum's collections for a few minutes.

So what have I been up to so far? Well a lot of wandering...visiting sites I wrote my thesis on connected to the Aragonese and Diomede Carafa: Castel Nuovo, Monteoliveto, Carafa's palace, Museo Archaeological Nazionale etc... etc... I'm renting a flat in the Pizzofalcone area, near the Piazza Plebescito. It's in a different area than I stayed last time, but still right in the heart of historic Naples. No hotels nearby, just authentic Neapolitans everywhere you look. Here are some photos of my trip so far. 

{dinner at home with oh-so-delicious fresh ingredients}

{the important thing for italians is looking good-look at this classy man checking his mobile, leather briefcase in hand, & polishing his shoes. Europeans put effort in their dress, something usually lacking in N. America}

{seafood!}

{markets spill out on the streets}

{more seafood}

{the presepio street--Naples is well known for their hand-crafted figurines for creches, or nativity scenes (presepio in italian)}

{Vesuvius-view from atop the Castel Nuovo}

{me, totally at home, in my flat}

{shoes...}

{shoes...}

{& more shoes...}

{gelato anyone? I love this sleek new shop all in white & brown}

While there are numerous tantalising images, Naples is suffering from a garbage strike (which happens regularly). Not so pleasant are the smelly piles of garbage, rotting especially due to the very hot weather we're having. Full english story here.

I'm off to do some more exploring. I'll be taking an excursion tomorrow, just haven't decided where yet. Will post more soon. 

ciao for now, 

xo

L

{postcards from italy~Florence}

{Piazza Repubblica (all photos mine unless otherwise noted)}

I’m currently on a train from Florence on my way to Naples.

Florence was amazing! I was there for a conference on luxury and the courts, and the conference itself seemed particularly luxurious. It was held in an old Renaissance villa that is now used by the European Institute in Fiesole. We convened in a gorgeous room with 15^th-century paintings of saints on the ceiling and a gorgeous fireplace (which was not needed in the 30 degree C Tuscan heat!).

{the setting of the conference}

{the decoration in the room}

{fireplace behind where I sat}

{the gardens-gorgeous!}

{the building the conference was held in}

Every night we all went out for a wonderful dinner with the ingredients that can only be found in Italy—things like fresh mozzarella, fresh basil & tomatoes that make your mouth water etc.. etc… oh & lovely vino of course! One of the conference organizers hosted a cocktail reception in his flat, which is in central Florence. The flat has beautiful frescoed ceilings and large, tall rooms opening up on to balconies that look down upon the busy Florentine streets below.

I was able to sneak in a few walks around Florence everyday before dinner. I’ve been to Florence numerous times and actually lived there for a month while I was a graduate student co-teaching a class at McGill. So in some ways it feels like home. Well not exactly, but at least very familiar. It’s also so amazing to walk around the city, spotting objects, buildings, paintings, and sculpture that I often teach in my Renaissance classes. These works of art seem like old friends, but somehow are seen anew every time I see them again in situ.

I had to take a break there for a moment from writing, and stop looking at the computer screen and instead look outside at the gorgeous countryside. I’m passing rolling Tuscan hills, gorgeous terracotta-tiled villas. Stunning!

Ok, so enough text, I know you want to see photos. Today I had the morning off before my train and I walked around Florence snapping photos of gorgeous shops, signage, and just taking in all Florence has to offer. I hope you enjoy.

Below, you’ll also find some recommendations for Florence. I often send these recommendations (with some edits)  to friends before they head to Florence. I hope you will find them useful as well.

Baci,

L

{antique shops}

{we had drinks here the last night}

{lovely shops}

{the unforgettable duomo & baptistry}

{the home of Salvatore Ferragamo}

{lovely little restaurants in Sto Spirito}

{one of my favourite restaurants in Florence--4 Leoni}

{gorgeous palazzi are found everywhere--just remember to look up}

As those who follow my blog know, I love shots of lovely storefronts & signage. Italy is full of these & I couldn't resist: 

{lovely baked goods}

{tons of antique shops on the Oltrarno, near Sto Spirito}

{the home of Pinocchio}

{I love how a simple wine shop can be set in such a beautiful building with Renaissance creations adorning the facade}

Florence things to see/do:
-shop at the mercato di San Lorenzo (which is near the Medici palace, and of course the church of San Lorenzo)
-walk along the Ponte Veccchio into the Oltrarno and on to the Palazzo Pitti and walk through the Boboli Gardens (even better--go to the market and get fresh bread and cheese and plenty of vino and bring it along as a picnic to the Boboli Gardens)...there is a grotto that you can visit in the Boboli gardens that is pretty crazy (the rocks are carved into various creations, including woolly lambs). [note that there are seperate tickets: tickets for the Boboli gardens and tickets for the Palazzo pitti (the palazzo pitti was the residence of the Medici grand dukes and now holds a huge collection of artworks)]
-walk up to San Miniato for breathtaking views of the city--and a bit more of a calmer pace than the centre of Florence (only a 20 min walk through lovely lemon/orange orchards)
-have a coffee or an aperitivo in one of the lovely little cafes in the piazza of Santo Spirito (very cool and funky piazza that doesn't get hoards of tourists--again in the Oltrarno)

as for art...there is so much and as an art historian there's so many recommendations, but here are a few:
-Santa Maria Novella--the frescoes are really amazing in the Tornabuoni chapel (main chapel) by Ghirlandaio and Filippo Lippi's crazy designs for the Strozzi Chapel.   There's also Masaccio's trinity (trinita) which is a famous piece & always features on most undegrad art history exams! Alberti was the architect for the building.
-the uffizi: THE museum to see for Renaissance Art--I would recommend getting reservations-you can just walk right in, rather than waiting hours in line.--you can buy reservations/tickets online.
-if you're a Michelangelo fan, then the Accademia is worth seeing because of the famous David, and all his other sculptures...but again huge line-ups. Casa Buonarotti also has a collection of his work.
 -San Lorenzo: major church for the Medici family, has the old sacristy by Brunelleschi & the new sacristy by Michelangelo (but you can't get to the new sacristy through the main church--that's another lineup!)

-make sure you go to the Piazza della Signoria, where the Palazzo Vecchio (or palazzo della signoria the original city hall) is...just outside is where Savonarola (the great dominican friar) was burned at the stake. beside this is the uffizi ...& the loggia dei lanzi houses some major sculptures by leading artists of the 16th century.

-on the other side of the river are Masaccio's famous paintings in the Brancacci chapel at the church of Santa Maria del Carmine  (for Vasari, these marked the new age of the Renaissance)

While on this side, I would definitely go to the restaurant Quattro Leoni: ...super good food and really nice setting and friendly staff, and not yet completely bombarded with tourists...it's in the Oltrarno, so not too touristy--really lovely and they have outside seating in a little piazza. and it's pretty reasonable too. (see above for photos)

check out their website (which doesn't do it justice)and also, if you walk into the Oltrarno (Oltrarno means the other side of the Arno--the river that runs through Florence--you can get to this area across any bridge (the Ponte Vecchio being the most famous)) you'll find some other great restaurants.

There's so much else, but that's a good start.

{let the summer travels begin!}

{lovely drink with lovely view--yes please!}

Excuse my absence from the blogosphere but I've spent the last few weeks in lovely Vancouver with family & friends. Tomorrow I'll be off on a plane, up in the skies, headed for Italia! First stop is Florence for a conference held at this amazing venue in Fiesole:

I'm hoping we'll be allowed to walk around the grounds.
After Florence I'll be back in Naples for a week. I spent a few months in Naples while conducting doctoral research & I haven't been back since.
My favourite shots from when I lived there:

{gorgeous votive image & pink paint}

{great piazza for coffee &/or prosecco. notice how prominent vespe are here!}

{markets/store that open onto the street}

{vini e oli (wine & oil), as if these are the two most essential things in life}

{crumbling edifices & laundry hanging}

I'm also looking forward to trips to the nearby islands such as Procida (below) & down the Amalfi Coast (such as Positano, further below):

{the port at Procida}

{the port at Positano}

For my trips to the beach, I like this collection: 

{from the sweetest occasion}

{Jcrew via terrier&lobster}

{via everythingfab}

{my summer travel set}

{photo via coco+kelley}

Ciao for now...I'll be sure to blog about my adventures.

xo